I played my band issue drum for about 2 years before I ever changed my own drum head.  Drum sergeants want to control these kinds of things in the beginning but after a while you are more or less expected to take care of your own drum.
Its not rocket science, but its good to have a process to follow.   Below are the steps that I take to replace heads and snares, along with some personal notes.


My drum is a Premier 200. This is my band issue drum. 
Pretty basic stuff, Premier 200.

The band bought several of them at a second hand sale.   Don't think they make these any more, but you see a lot of them in starter bands like the ones I'm in.


NeededParts.JPG (58888 bytes) Collect the items you need:
bulletwide drum key; need torque power!
bullet14" top head [Remo Tendura]
bullet14" bottom head [Remo Ambassador]
bullettop snare (short one) [Premier #0678]
bulletbottom snare [Andante part#750A]

Single malt optional...I suppose.

TopHeadOff.JPG (54509 bytes) Removing the old head:
bulletRelease the tension on the top snare.
bulletLower the top snare.
bulletLoosen all the bolts holding the top head.
bulletUnscrew the bolts the rest of the way.
bulletThe bolts will probably have grease on them so set them on a piece of paper.
bulletThe bolts have triangular metal washers, don't loose them.
bulletThe head and rim should lift right off, however the head may be stuck in the rim.

If the head is stuck in the rim:

bulletHold the rim/head upside down.
bulletGrasp the rim firmly...
bulletSlam it down squarely over a bucket; 
bullet...don't bend the rim.
bulletApply single malt.
bulletRepeat as needed.
TopSnareMounting.JPG (59876 bytes) The top snare should slide off to the left or right.   You may need to loosen the tension a bit more.

With the head and snare off, give your drum a good inspection and cleaning.  Look for signs of wear and rust.  If you find rust, sand and paint.

Slide the new top snare in its place and tighten up the tension enough to make sure it does not move while you install the new top head.

TopHeadPositioning.JPG (50598 bytes) Put the new top head on.

If you don't center the drum head logo WRT to your carrying harness, you will hate yourself later.

bulletLine up the rim with the drum bolt mounts.
bulletGet all the bolts started.
bulletSpin 'em all down until you get some resistance.
bulletGet a quarter and use that as a spacer between the rim and the bolt mounts.

Get it tight enough to get a reasonable sound, but be careful to not over tighten, because you need to 'tune' with the other snare drums in your group.
  ...but that's another lesson.

Tighten the tension on the snare and raise it into position.

BottomsUp.JPG (57107 bytes) Flip the drum over.

Bottoms up.

BottomSnareMounting2.JPG (57475 bytes) Spin the knobs on the lower snare until you can lift the snare off the traction pins on each side.

Loosen the bolts for the bottom head.   Most likely you will hear some cracking and creaking.

Remove the bolts the rest of the way and place them on a piece of paper.. greasy again.


BottomHeadOff.JPG (58967 bytes) As with the top head, now is a good time to inspect and clean your drum.


bulletPut the new head on.
bulletWhen you put the rim on, be sure to align the flat gaps with the snare mounts.
bulletStart all the bolts.
bulletSpin up the bolts till you get some resistance.
bulletTighten to a reasonable setting.  Remember tuning is a group effort so don't over do it.

The rim will probably sit higher than it was since the old head was stretched.   You may need to adjust the snare mounts up a bit.  If you do, make sure it is even on both sides (easier to tell after you put the snare in place).

Put the snare in place and look at how it sits on the drum head.  It should be taught with only a paper thin gap between the snare and drum head.

Over the next few days monitor these bottom bolts closely.  They will need some tightening as the head settles in.  If you are not mindful, the bolts vibrate out while you are on parade.

ProperJob.JPG (58254 bytes) That's my best guess at how to do it.




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